Daniel Fletcher’s London Trend Week Debut For Mithridate
Finale at Mithridate’s London Trend Week runway present that includes a brand new M brand designed by the brand new artistic director Daniel Fletcher
Courtesy Mithridate
It is all change at Chinese language model Mithridate. In January, the Guangzhou-based label ushered in a brand new artistic director, appointing British designer Daniel Fletcher, swiftly adopted by a marketing campaign starring British It-girl Alexa Chung (wearing shorts, a striped Oxford shirt, and a fluffy cable-knit jumper). On 21 February, it was time to see the fruits of this partnership on the runway with a present at London Trend Week.
Billed as “British heritage meets Chinese language craftsmanship,” that is definitely a novel thought. Gone are the gildings and expressions of Chinese language tradition underneath former artistic director Demon Zhang who exited in 2024. As a substitute, this assortment foregrounds British eccentricity, designed for characters that leap from the pages of a Richard Curtis screenplay.
Fletcher, who additionally serves as artistic director of horse racing occasion Royal Ascot, is quintessentially British and due to this fact the perfect channel to discover how Chinese language craftsmanship brings English concepts of gown to life. “I wished to create one thing that spoke to my heritage however make use of the sources and experience Mithridate has, that’s not already out there,” Fletches says backstage amongst temper boards that includes The Rolling Stones, Diana Princess of Wales, and David Hockney.
Regardless of the challenges, approaching board late within the day, coping with time variations, and half the workforce being in China, Fletcher has managed to drag off the unattainable. A group that, from the highest down, units an thrilling new benchmark for Chinese language manufacturers. Little marvel CEO Tina Jiang appeared happy backstage.
Right here, Fletcher outlines highlights from his debut assortment for Mithridate.
Finale at Mithridate’s Autumn/Winter 25 runway present at London Trend Week
Courtesy Mithridate
A brand new Motif
Like all new hires, Fletcher set his stamp with a brand new brand that facilities across the M insignia. First unveiled in January, the brand new typeface is impressed by antiquities that will have held the semi-mythical mithridate treatment created by Mithridates VI Eupator of Pontus within the 1st century BC. As Fletcher explains backstage after the runway, he additionally checked out Jermyn Road store indicators and Savile Row to unite the home’s new factors of reference. On the runway, these new motifs and logos are seen in double-knit jumpers, vests, and shirting.
Chinese language craft
Since his appointment, Fletcher has been eager to advocate for the Chinese language craftsmanship on the coronary heart of Mithridate which has seven standalone shops throughout Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. “I wished to remember to incorporate Chinese language craft and to maneuver past the destructive perceptions of the made-in-China label. I’ve been so impressed with all of the workforce, the standard, and the craft. That was one of many issues I stated after I got here onboard, that I solely wished to do that to a excessive stage, and that’s what we’ve been in a position to do,” he explains. Specifically, he highlights a striped Harrington jacket that’s hand-embroidered utilizing a standard Chinese language method that’s native to Guangzhou.
Look 1, a private favorite of Mithridate’s new artistic director Daniel Fletcher
Courtesy Mithridate
Look 1
The opening look was Fletcher’s private favourite. Right here, contexts are reconfigured and layering is an act that’s much less about pairing and extra about juxtaposition which creates a ladylike silhouette. “I really like this Woman Diane vibe, which could be very female and ladylike, however then is challenged by the bomber jacket and woolen zip-up hoodie,” he says. Primarily, Fletcher is enjoying with expectations and as he amidst, loves the thought of individuals sporting these separates “how they like.”
Spots and stripes
Daniel Fletcher loves stripes. And is keen on the odd polka dot too. This implies spots and stripes, with lush cable knits, are key codes in Mithridate.20. One look on the evocative moodboard that has nostalgic pictures of a younger Mick Jagger and Keith Richards wearing stripes of all persuasions (from rugby shirts to pinstripe fits) and polka dots are pinned beside different tropes of Britishness equivalent to cable knit jumpers and stylish tailoring. Texture weighs closely in delivering this temper too as horizontal and vertical strips conflict, fluffy cable knits and leathers. It’s nostalgic in affect, up to date in execution.
Stripes are a key function of Daniel Flectcher’s design codes at Chinese language model Mithridate.
Courtesy Mithridate
