Jawara Alleyne: ‘There’s usually a one-dimensional view of Caribbean trend’

“I’m not simply speaking in regards to the Caribbean, I’m speaking to the Caribbean,” says Jawara Alleyne, the designer whose flag is planted on the intersection of up to date trend design and Caribbean futurism. In the previous few years, the Caymanian-Jamaican artistic has captivated the business together with his daring, forward-thinking strategy to trend, the place clothes are extra than simply clothes, they’re statements of identification, transformation, belonging and tradition. Recognized for his fearless use of supplies and unconventional strategies, Alleyne reimagines the probabilities of his craft by remodeling knots of material and safety-pinned material into covetable, boundary-pushing product. However what strikes me as we meet one autumn day in London isn’t just his technical talent, however his capability to inform tales. He’s, like a handful of the good designers earlier than him, one thing of a dream-maker.

Alleyne’s rise within the world trend panorama is testomony to his distinctive capability to navigate totally different worlds, too. Transferring to London on the age of 18 to check at Central Saint Martins, he started mixing particulars from town’s wealthy array of favor subcultures into his work. It was this distinctive fusion – of the capital’s avant-garde vitality with the depth and mysticism of his heritage – that quickly grew to become his hallmark. Whether or not he’s designing for the runway or crafting customized tasks for the likes of Rihanna (who lately named him as her favorite rising designer), Alleyne’s imaginative and prescient, he explains, stays clear: to problem standard concepts of what trend might be, and who will get to outline it. Right here, we sit down to debate his inspirations, what it means to be a Caribbean designer, and his journey of reshaping identification by means of trend. From his early days designing promenade clothes within the Cayman Islands to his newest collections, his is a narrative of fixed evolution.

Inform me a bit about rising up in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, with huge desires of being a designer? Have been you capable of categorical that totally?

Jawara Alleyne: I used to be capable of categorical myself fairly freely. I’ve been doing trend since childhood. Rising up in Jamaica, I at all times felt artistic. My pals would let you know I at all times had a bit sketchbook, even in faculty. However after I moved to Cayman at 12, I seen there have been extra sources in comparison with Jamaica. It was smaller, the competitors was much less, and alternatives had been extra accessible. In Jamaica, there have been alternatives, however they weren’t at all times straightforward to get, [depending] on the place you lived. I did my first trend present in Cayman after I was 16, and from there I used to be designing promenade clothes, Miss Cayman Island appears – something trend, I used to be concerned.

What was that first present like at 16? Do you recollect it clearly?

Jawara Alleyne: It was main. It was a contest, and it helped me perceive my capabilities and what I wished to do with my life. I used to be evaluating my creations to the likes of [Alexander] McQueen and [John] Galliano. I wasn’t positive if every part was cohesive on the time, however now, trying again, I realise that the expertise helped me develop my very own design language. Now, I can create with a uncooked strategy, and the cohesiveness comes naturally.

It’s attention-grabbing that you just had been making these comparisons at such a younger age – which isn’t one thing many younger Caribbean designers do. It’s nearly like a special style of design. I’m interested in how your Jamaican-Caymanian heritage matches into your storytelling as a designer?

Jawara Alleyne: I feel it’s baked in. Early on, I needed to create collections that showcased Caymanian tradition. I hated it on the time as a result of I assumed, ‘Who cares about palm bushes or the seashore?’ I wished to inform tales for a world viewers. However trying again it actually challenged me to consider methods to incorporate my cultural background, whereas nonetheless assembly Eurocentric design requirements. Now it’s simply a part of me, and I don’t must attempt to mix these worlds.

That brings up the query of what it means to be Caribbean in trend, doesn’t it?

Jawara Alleyne: Precisely. There’s usually a one-dimensional view of Caribbean tradition in trend. Like, everybody romanticises Bob Marley and reggae, nevertheless it’s not the total image. I cherished Dior’s Rasta assortment however, after some time, seeing the identical colors and dreads feels repetitive. I’m thinking about telling tales from a spot of honesty. What does Jamaican or Caymanian identification appear like past the apparent? Coming to London helped me take a look at that from an anthropological perspective: who will get to inform the story and the way?

“There’s a two-way dialog I’m making an attempt to have with my work, the place I’m not simply speaking in regards to the Caribbean, I’m additionally speaking to the Caribbean” – Jawara Alleyne

So do you are feeling you’re within the means of redefining what it means to be Caribbean in trend?

Jawara Alleyne: Sure, it’s about taking management of that narrative. For me, it’s about feeling. Whether or not it’s the tough feeling of taking a bus from Mandeville to Kingston or the mysticism of pirates from each Jamaica and Cayman, it’s about presenting one thing that feels true to my expertise. I’ve already established that my story is rooted within the Caribbean, however now it’s extra about how that reveals up in the way in which I deal with supplies. It resonates with individuals, even these not from the Caribbean, as a result of it’s emotionally charged.

That emotional connection feels like how meals connects the Caribbean and African diaspora – totally different, however rooted in the identical influences.

Jawara Alleyne: Precisely! There’s this shared dynamic that touches totally different audiences, however the baseline is identical.

Are there any core reminiscences you might have – of meals or in any other case – that instantly connect with your strategy to trend?

Jawara Alleyne: Seeing my mom and aunts costume up – they used trend to transcend their circumstances. Seeing these Black girls carry themselves with such a way of sophistication and elegance, regardless of not coming from a lot, was a extremely necessary a part of my upbringing and finally affected how I approached trend. They’re reminiscences and experiences that I proceed to make use of as instruments at the moment.

Did you discover any variations between Jamaican and Caymanian trend?

Jawara Alleyne: I at all times describe it like meals. Jamaica is like your grandma’s home-cooked meal – filled with flavour and elegance with restricted sources. Cayman, however, is sort of a Michelin-star meal – extra polished and refined, however with fully totally different guidelines. Cayman [fashion] is small, easy, and revolves round huge manufacturers, whereas Jamaica is all about type and creativity with what you might have.

Rihanna lately gave you her stamp of approval, naming you as one in every of her favorite designers. How did that have an effect on you?

Jawara Alleyne: It gave me confidence. There’s a two-way dialog I’m making an attempt to have with my work, the place I’m not simply speaking in regards to the Caribbean, I’m additionally speaking to the Caribbean. When individuals from the Caribbean see my work, I would like them to see themselves in it. Rihanna’s approval was an affirmation that I’m doing one thing proper, capturing these Caribbean emotions inside my work.

How do you navigate creating for a web-based viewers whereas staying true to your offline artistic course of?

Jawara Alleyne: I don’t design for on-line, nevertheless it occurs to do effectively there. There’s an emotional connection once you see the garments in individual. I come from a efficiency background, so it’s about creating one thing that strikes individuals, one thing dramatic that speaks to them in actual life. On-line is nice, however I would like my work to journey through phrase of mouth – one thing that hits individuals after they see it in movement.

When you may collaborate with any artist – painter, musician, filmmaker – who wouldn’t it be?

Jawara Alleyne: I’d’ve stated Rihanna, however that already occurred! So I’d say Tarantino. I see trend as world-building, and dealing with him can be attention-grabbing. I like motion movies, and the ladies in his movies have this angle the place you understand the world revolves round them. That’s how I’d describe the Jawara girl. I’d like to make a vampire movie with him.

Sure! A Caribbean vampire movie!

Jawara Alleyne: Precisely. With all of the mysticism within the Caribbean, it will be excellent. There’s a lot materials to drag from – totally different religions, folklore. It’s all there.

What does the phrase ‘legacy’ imply to you?

Jawara Alleyne: I strive not to consider it an excessive amount of, however for me legacy is creating issues that individuals really feel related to, no matter the place they’re from. I would like individuals to see a constructive illustration of one thing significant to them in my work. It’s not about me, it’s about how I make others really feel. That’s particular. It’s like creating one thing that evokes a brand new emotion each time it’s handed down. Precisely – the Jawara emotion.

Scroll by means of the gallery beneath to see Alleyne’s total SS25 assortment

Hair SHUNSUKE MEGURO at FUTURE REP utilizing ORIBE, make-up KYLE DOMINIC utilizing MAKE UP FOR EVER, fashions CLAUDIA ISHIMWE at SELECT, IFER ROURKE at NEVS, J MOON at THE MILK COLLECTIVE, MOUSSA BOIRO at SUPA, ZHUO CHEN at NEXT, TOBY HUDSON JONES at ANTI, set design THOMAS BIRD at EAST PHOTOGRAPHIC, motion course YAGAMOTO at NEW SCHOOL REPRESENTS, photographic assistants ARIEL MIHÁ LY, VALDRIN REXHEPI, styling assistant CORA MUIR, hair assistants RIO SHINMAKI, KENTA UCHINOKURA, make-up assistants MARIIA USANOVA, SASHA CHUDEEVA, set design assistants NANA-YAW MENSAH, TITUS HOPE, CARLOTA CABRERA, manufacturing NEW SCHOOL REPRESENTS, post-production SEVEN, casting JON JOHNSON, particular thanks JAWARA ALLEYNE, SPRING STUDIOS, SAM ROSS